Although Hadrian’s Wall is the best known of the Park’s historical treasures, there are other sites that hint at the shape of an older, pre-Roman society. In the northern half of the Park, on the summits of lonely Cheviot hills, are the remains of around fifty Iron Age hillforts.

Moving on from Craster the next landmark of note is the jagged ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle, standing on a spur of land that juts out into the North Sea. The castle was built in response to a military threat from Scotland, a theme that will become familiar as the border draws nearer.

The Holy Island of Lindisfarne off the coast of Northumberland is invaded on a regular basis during the summer months. At low tide the sea parts to reveal a road across to the island. Until the water returns, traffic streams to and fro across the causeway bringing visitors eager to see the religious sites, such …